Sewing machine



March "2 1926.

f A.-B. FOWLER SEWING MACHINE 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 Original Filed 0 m. 21, 1920 Inwnlafl mmwm a witness:

March 2 1926. 1,575,113

A. B. FOWLER I SEWING MACHINE Original Filed Oct. 21, 1920 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 a i Q i i B! i 74 1 witness: a W 7 1 I wmgfi;

March 2 1926.

A. B. FOWLER SEWING MACHINE Original Filed Oct. 21, 1920 4 Sheets-Sheet 5 I law/4V m ww w Illiineaa:

. wad 215,444

March 2', 1926. 1,575,113

1 I A. B. FOWLER SEWING MACHINE or Filed 001. 21, 1920 4 5116111561111 4.

Patented Mar. 2, 1926.

1,575,113 PATENT OFFICE.

A -rnm) 'IB. rownnn, or BEVERLY, nassacnusnrrsnssroivon TO unrrn 3 I MACHINERY CORPORATION, or PATERSON, NEW JERSEY.

snwrns MACHINE.

Application filed October 21, 1920, Serial No. 418,452. Renewed April 1, 1925.

and useful Improvements in Sewing Machines; and I do hereby declare the t'ollowing to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

The present invention relates to sewing machines and more particularly to wax.

threaded chain stitch inseam shoe sewing machines, although certain features of the invention are applicable to 'otliertypes of sewing machines. r I

In applicants co-pending application, Serial No. -l18,et5l filed of even date herewith, a wax thread chain stitch inseam shoe sewing machine isillustrated and described which is provided with a main take-up for drawing thread from the supply and exert ing a strain on the thread while the "needle is. in its forward position,and for giving up thread during the thread measuring movement of the thread arm, the looping movement of the looper, andthe first part of the retracting movement of the needle. The machine is also provided with I a spring pressed auxiliary take-up which tends to be urged in a direction to exert a strain on the thread during the. latter part of the retracting movement of the needle, a stop beingprovided for limitingthis movement of the take-up. At' the start of the retracting movement of the main take-up, the auxiliary take-up is moved by its spring against the stop, and the stop is so positioned that under normal conditions of sewing, a certain amount of slack or free thread is provided during the thread measuring movement of the thread arm, the loopingmovement of the looper, and the first part of the retracting movement ofthe needle. In the operation of sewing machines, particularly of this type, it has been found that the strain which must be exerted on the thread to produce the best results varies with the speed at which the machine is operated, a greater strain ordinarily being required to produce a tight seam when the machine is operated at a low speed than when the machine is operated at a high speed. To secure this result in the machine of said corpending application, means is provided that acts, upon a reduction in the speed of the machine, to raise the stop for the auxiliary takeup, which results in decreasing the amount of slackor free thread provided, as above described, for the stitch forming devices. flhis,obviously, will cause the needle during ts retracting movement to act sooner to cooperate with the auxiliary take-up spring to exert a strain on the thread and, conseincreased to compensate for the reduction in the speed of the machine. It will thus be apparent that in the machine of said copending application that to secure the desired uniform tightness of stitch upon a variation in the speed of the machine, there must be a corresponding variation in. the amount of slack or free thread provided'during the thread measuring movement of the thread arm and the looping movement of the looper.

An object of the present invention is to provide novel and improved means in a sewing machine for regulating the strain exerted on the thread upon a variation in the speed of the machine.

lVith this and other objects in View a feature of the present invention contemplates the provision in a sewing machine having stitch forming devices and mechanism for exerting a strain on the thread of means rendered active upon a reduction inthe speed of the machine to adjust said mechanism during the formation of each stitch to vary the amount of the strain. In the preferred embodiment of the invention such variation in the strain is accomplished by varying the duration of the strain, and the adjustment of the mechanism for exerting the strain occurs after the thread measuring movement of the thread arm, the looping movement of the looper, so that such adjustment will not affect the amount of slack or free thread provided during such operations of the thread arm and looper. The, machine illustrated'in the accompanying drawings is provided with hi h and low speed driving mechanisms, and the means for adjusting the mechanism for exerting the strain on the thread comprises a cam carried byia clutch member which constitutes a component part of the driving mechanisms. Connections are provided between the cam and said'strain exerting mechanism, so that quently, the durationof this strain will be upon shifting from the high to the low speed driving mechanisms the clutch member will carry the cam into position to act on said connections at the proper time during each stitch forming cycle of opera tions of the machine to eflect the desired adjustment of said mechanism, although the broader features of the invention are not limited to this specific construction.

In channeling the insoles of pointed toe welt shoes and the soles of pointed toe turn shoes, it frequently happens that the channeling tools form the portion ofthe between substance at the toe narrower than other portions of the between substance. As a result of such narrowness of the between substance at the toe of the sole of a pointed toe shoe and also of the sharp turn that must be made in sewing about this portion of the shoe, considerable difficulty has been experienced in sewing the inseam by machine without pulling the stitches through or materially weakening the between substance at this point. This difficulty is so serious that it is customary in many factories to sew the toe portion of the inseam by hand, which of course adds materially to the cost of manufacture of the shoes.

Accordingly, an object of the present invention is to provide means in an inseam shoe sewing machine for preventing any danger of the stitches, pulling through the between substance during the sewing of the toe portion of a pointed toe shoe. 7 v

it-h this and other objects in view, a feature of the present invention contemplates the provision in a sewing machine for forming the seam that secures the upper to the between substance of the sole of a shoe, of mechanism for resisting the strain of the thread on the between substance during the formation of a stitch, and means for throwing said mechanism into and out of operation during the operation of the machine. ith this construction it will be apparent that said mechanism for resisting the strain of the thread on the between substance may operate only during the sewing of the toe portion of a shoe and, consequently, will not affect the sewingof the remaining portions of the inseam. In the preferred embodiment of the invention, the low speed driving mechanism is adapted to drive the machine while sewing about the toe of the shoe as hereinbefore described, and means is provided whereby said mechanism for resisting the strain of the thread is rendered active upon throwing in the low speed driving mechanism. It will thus be apparent that said mechanism may be rendered active at the same time that the mechanism is rendered active for adjusting the stitch setting mechanism to increase the stitch setting strain exerted on the thread during the formation of a stitch. While obviously, the

mechanism for resisting the strain of the thread is particularly desirable for use in a machine embodying a mechanism for increasing the strain exerted on-the thread upon a reduction in the speed of the machine, certain features of the invention are not limited to the conjoint use of these mechanisms. In the embodiment of the invention illustrated in the drawings the mechanism for resisting the strain of the thread on the between substance during the formation of a stitch comprises a sticker point which is inclined towards the edge of the sole and penetrates the work at the inner edge of the between substance so that in addition to resisting the strain of the thread on the between substance it acts to urge the thread toward the bottom of the channel .in the sole although it is to be understood that, except as defined in the claims, the invention is not limited to this specific construction.

Other features of the present invention consist in certain constructions, arrange ments and combinations of parts hereinafter described and claimed, the advantages of which will be obvious to those skilled in the art.

The several features of the present invention will be clearly understood from the following description and accompanying drawings, in which Figure 1 is a front elevation of the head of a wax thread chain stitch inseam shoe sewing machine embodying the features in their preferred form; Fig. 2 is a side elevation on an enlarged scale-of a portion of the head of the machine with a side of the casing removed; Fig. 3 is a detailed sectional view taken on the line 3-3 of Fig. 2 of a portion of the mechanism for-controlling the strain exerted on the thread; Fig. 4: is a plan view of the portion of the machine illustrated in Fig. 2; Fig. 5 is a diagrammatical plan view of parts of the thread arm, looper, needle, and sticker point shown in the positions which they assume with relation to the work at the end of the retracting movement of the needle; Fig. 6 is a diagrammatical side elevation of the parts of the machine shown in Fig.5, with the work shown in transverse section; and Fig. 7 is a sectional view taken on the line 77 of Fig. 1.

The sewing machine illustrated in the drawings is provided witha curved hook needle 2, a needle carrier 4:, a looper 6, a thread arm 8, a back gage 10, a back rest or bunter 12, and a thread tensioning device comprising a tension wheel 14. The machine is also provided with a high speed driving mechanism comprising a pulley 16 mounted on the driving shaft 18 of the machine and a low speed driving mechanism comprising a worm wheel 20 mounted on hedriving shaft- A c utch m b r i secured to the driving shaft 18 between the pulley 16' and the worm wheel 20, which upon being shifted in one direction throws in the high speed driving mechanism, and upon being shifted in the opposite direction throws out the high speed driving mechanism and throws in the low speed driving mechanism. The low speed driving mechanism is thrown in when the high speed driving mechanism is thrown out and acts first to reduce the speed of the machine ;to its own speed and then to drive themarhine positively at alow speed for at least a predetermined number of degrees of rotation of the driving shaft, whereuiponthe low speed driving mechanism is thrown out and stopping devices act tostopthe shaft in a predetermined 7 angular position. .The high speed driving mechanism is, thrown in upon the depression of a rod 22 connected with a treadle mechanism at the base fof the machine, and is thrown out. and the low -speed driving mechanism is thrown in upon the rod being released. I The rod '22 is connected with, the driving. mechanisms through an arm 24 secured to one end of a rock shaft 26 that carries a forked arm 28 engaging a clutch sleeve 30 mounted to" slide on and rotate with the driving shaft 18,. lYheuthe trefidl-e 1 0d 22 is aeleased to throw out tle high speed driving mechanism and to'throw in the lowspeed driving mechanism, the upwardmovement of the ar1n'24. which is effected by means of a torsion spring 31 con nected with the farm, islimited by the engagement ofa stop lug 32- thereon with the lower end of a latch lever 34 pivoted onthe frame of the machine. At a. predetermined point in the rotation of thedriving shaft after the low speed driving mechanism is thus thrown in, the latch 1ever34 is released from the; stop lug 32 bya cam carried bythe driving shaft. allowing the arm 24 to be further carried upwardly by its spring which shifts the clutch sleevefi30 into position so that after a predetermined numlxar .of degrees of rotation of the, drivingeshaft after the latch lever 34 released, the lowvspced driving mechanismis thrown ,out, and the stopping devices act tostop the shaftin a predetermined angular position. Insewing about thetoe .of a pointed meshqe, it is desirable that the. inachineshall be ruu at a uniformly low speed, and it will be apparent that this may be accomplished in the illustrated machine by the operator releasing the treadlerod22 only sufficiently to throw in the low speed driving mechanism wi thout rendering the stopping devices of the machine active, and that upon again depressing the treadle rod 22 the driving mechanism may be shifted backito high speed. The

parts above described may beand preferably I ure h sw a s he rr spond ng P rts of the machine illustrated and described in appli .cants Eco-pending application Serial 298,589, filedMay 21, 1919, to which reference may be had for a full and complete description of the same. a

The main take-up comprises a thread truck 36 mounted on the free end of an arm .38 projecting from a sleeve 40 which is loosely mounted on a stud shaft 42 secured to the frame .of the machine. The main take-up is actuated by an arm 44 projecting upwardly from the sleeve 40 and having its free end pivotally connected with a cam actuated link 46. The auxiliary take-up which is interposed between the main take-up and the tension wheel let comprises a thread true l8 mounted on the free end of an arm projecting from a sleeve 52 which is loosely mounted on the sleeve 40 of the main take up. The auxiliary take-up arm 50 is urged upwardly by a coiledspring 5d connected therewith until, a projection thereon abuts against the lower end of an abutment 56. The thread passes from thetension wheel over il ie'thr ead truck 48, beneatl'i a thread truck .58 loosely mounted on the auxiliary ta-lineup sleevev,52, over the thread truck 36 'of the tlnead,,arm,;,during the looping movcmentof the looper, and during the first part of the retracting movement of the needle. During the latter part of the retractingmovement of the needle, it exerts a pull on the thread to tighten the preceding loop, such pull movingthe auxiliary takeup arm 50 away from the abutment 56 against the tension of the auxiliary take-up spring 545,. To render the action of the main take-up, the auxiliary take-up and the needle reliable and uniform under all conditions of'sewing, means are provided which insure that the pull exerted upon the thread by the needle during the latter part of its retracting movement shall always be against the resistance offered by the auxiliary tension springb i and not against the resistance offered by the tension wheel MI To secure this result the needle carrier 4 is provided with a ,cam surface 60 to cooperate withthe. end of an arm 62' projecting from the auxiliary take-up sleeve 52. The cam surface 60 acts to positively raise the auxiliary take-up and to hold the auxiliary take-up inraised position during the action 9f he, main takesup in setting the stitch,

so that during the latter portion of the taking up action of the main take-up the auxiliary take-up is practically locked in a position in which the arm 50 of the auxiliary takeup is nearly in contact with the abutment 56. As the main take-up moves to give up thread, however, the retracting movement of the needle carrier moves the cam surface 60 away from the path of the end of the arm 62 leaving the auxiliary take-up free to be moved against the tension of the spring 54 so that when the needle exerts a pull on the thread during the latter part of its retracting movement the auxiliary takeup can yield to the required extent without bringing up against a positive stop so as to cause any strain to be exerted on the thread in addition to that caused by the spring 56 of the auxiliary take-up.

In the machine illustrated in the drawings, during the retracting movement of the main take-up, the auxiliary take-up arm 50 is raised by the spring 54 against the abutment 56, and the abutment is so positioned that a certain amount of slack or free thread is provided during the thread measuring movement of the thread arm, the looping movement of the looper, and the first part of the retracting movement of the needle, or until the needle has retracted sufficiently to cooperate with the auxiliary take-up spring to exert a strain on the thread. It will be apparent that by raising the abutment 56 the amount of free thread thus provided for the stitch forming devices may be decreased and that the needle may act sooner to cooperate with the anxiliary take-up spring to exert a strain on the thread. Consequently, the duration of this strain will be increased upon thus raising the abutment 56. which obviously results in the amount or effectiveness of the strain being increased.

The parts of the main take-up and the auxiliary take-up above described are of the same construction and mode of operation, except as hereinafter described, as the corresponding parts of the machine illustrated and described in the co-pending application filed of even date herewith, hereinbefore referred to.

In said prior machine. means is provided for raising the abutment for the auxiliary take-up to increase the strain exerted on the thread upon a reduction in the speed of the machine, which means is rendered active upon throwing in the low speed driving mechanism, and this means is such that the abutment is continuously held in raised position during the time that the low speed driving mechanism is in operation. Thus it will be apparent that the operation of the means in the prior machine for increasing the strain exerted on the thread will decrease the amount of slack or: free thread provided during the thread measuring movement of the thread arm and the looping movement of the looper.

In the machine illustrated in the drawings, the means for raising the abutment 56 to effect an increase in the stitch setting strain exerted on the thread when the machine is running at low speed is such that the abutment 56 is raised just after the looping movement of the looper, and the abutment is returned to its lowered position before the start of the next retracting movement of the main take-up, such raising and lowering of the abutment occurring during the formation of each stitch. It will be apparent from the foregoing that in the present construction the increase in the strain exerted on the thread while the machine is running at low speed may be accomplished without affecting the amount. of slack or free thread provided during the thread measuring movement of the thread arm and the looping movement of the looper. The abutment 56 comprises a. rod which is screw threaded through an aperture in a. cross bar 64, and is adapted to be adjusted in the aperture and locked in adjusted position by a lock nut 66. The bar 64 is mounted to slide on a belt or pin 68 secured to the machine frame, and is urged upwardly against stop nuts 7 0 thread ed on the upper end of the pin 68 by means of a spring 72 coiled about the pin and interposed between the cross bar 64 and the ma chine frame. The cross bar is connected by a cord 74 with the forward end of a lever 76 having'its rear end'fulcrumed on the machine. frame. A bolt or stud 78 is adjustably screw threaded through a central aperture in the lever 76, and the lower end of the stud is adapted to be engaged by a cam segment 80 secured to the periphery of the driving clutch member 19 of the driving mechanism of the machine. The lever 76 is urged downwardly by a torsion spring 82 connected therewith, the down ward movement being limited by an ad justable abutment screw 84 threaded through an aperture in the lever 76. WVhen the machine is being driven at high speed the cam segment 80 is positioned to the right of the stud 78, and therefore will not act on the stud, but upon releasing the treadle rod 22 to throw in the low speed driving mechanism, the cam segment 80 is moved laterally by the clutch member into position so that its periphery may act upon the stud 78 during the continued rotation of the clutch member. Upon shifting back to the high speed driving mechanism, the cam segment 80 will be returned by the clutch member 19 out of position to engage the stud 78.

With this construction it will be apparent from an inspection of the drawings, that Lain-11s during each rotation of the driving shaft and hence during the formation of each stitch, while the low eed driving mechanism is thrown in, that is cam segment sown raise the lever 76 to allow the coiled spring 7 2 to raise the cross-bar 64 against the stop nuts- 70. Thisposition of the cross-bar 'issuch that the abutment '6 isso positioned as to eflect the desired increase in the stitch setting strain to compensate for the reduction in the speed of the machine. As the cam 80 leaves the stud '7 8' the torsion spring 82 will act through the lever 76, cord 74, and cross-bar 64 to return the abutment 56 to its normal lowered position, this movement of the abutment being determined by the abutment screw 8 on the cam actuated lever 76. f

In order to resist the strainexerted on the between substance while sewing about the toe of a pointed toe shoe, the machine illustrated in the drawings is provided with a sticker point .86 which is thrown into operation upon throwingin the low speed driving -mechanism. The sticker point penetrates the work substantially at the inner edge of the between substance and in proximity to the last formed needle hole, and acts to reenforce the between substance and to form a point of resistance about which the thread is'dravvn during the formation of a stitch. The stickerpoint is inclined towards the edge of the sole so that the threadin" engaging the sticker pointwill be urged downwardly to the rootof the channel or the bottom of the between substance. The sticker point is projected into the work while the work is being held by the needle, the back gage, the back rest-orbunter', and the channel guide,-so that there is no danger of the sticker point displacing the work. The sticker point is retracted from the work just before the-work is fed so that the sticker" point is in the work during the strain exerted on the thread both by the main takeup and the auxiliary take-up. 4

The shank of the sticker point which is bent at right angles is mounted in a sleeve 88 and is adjustably secured therein by a" bolt 90 to enable the sticker point to be laterally adjusted. The sleeve 88 is formed on the free end of the horizontal arinof a bell crank 92 fulcrumed on the machine frame.

lever 96, and the end of the forked arm- .of

the bell crank is engaged on one side by nuts 98 threadedonthe bolt and on the other sideby' a springIOO coiled about the boltand interposed between the arm and the lever 96." By adjusting the nuts 98 on the bolt the vertical position of the stickerpoint may be variedi The bolt 94 is secured The other arm of the-bell crank is forked to engage a bolt 94 secured to a frame. The lever 96 is urged in a direction to raise the sticker point 86 by a torsion spring 102 coiled about the fulcrum of the lever and connected with the inner arm of the level, this movement of the lever being limited by the engagement of a stop screw 103 thereon with the machine frame. The lever 96 is turned in a direction to cause the sticker'poi'nt to be projected into the work by means of a bolt or stud 104* secured to the end'of'the outer arm of the lever which, while the machine is being driven by the low speed driving mechanism, is' ca gaged at the prope'r times by the periphery of the cam segment 80 to e'ii'e'ct the desired operation of the sticker point. It will be apparent that upon throwing in the low speed driving mechanism the cam segment 80: is carried by the clutch member 19 into position to engage the stud 104, so that the mechanis'infor actuating the sticker point will be rendered active at this time, and that uponthrowing out the low speed driving mechanism and throwing inthe high speed driving mechanism the cam segment 80 will be shifted to one side or-out of the position to act onthe'stud 104, so that the actuating mechanism for the sticker point will be inoperative while the machine is being driven at high speed.

It will be apparent from the foregoing that the mechanism for regulating the strain exerted onthe thread and themeclianisin for actuating the stickerpoint are both render'cd active by the cam segment 80 when the low s eed driving mechanism is thrown in, and t at both of these mechanisms are inactive while the machine is being driven at high speed; V

In order that the engagement'of the side of the cam segment 80 with the sides of the studs 78 and 104 shall not interfere with the shifting of. the clutch member 19 to throw in the low speed driving mechanism, the sides of the cam segment and studs are beveled slightly as shown in Fig. 1, so that upon engagement of the sides of the cam segment and studs during such shifting of the clutch member, the studs will be forced upwardly out of the path of the lateral movement of the cam segment andinto position to engage the peripheral surface of the cam segment.

While it is preferred to employ the specific construction and arrangement of'parts illustrated and described, it is to be undcrstood that this" construction and arrangement is not essential except so far as" specified in the claims, and may be changed or modified without departing from the broader features ,of the invention.

The nature and scope of the present invention" having been indicated and a machine embodying the several features of the invention in their preferred form having been specifically described, what is claimed 1. A sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a needle, mechanismfor exerting a strain on the thread during the retracting movement of the needle, and means rendered active upon a reduction in the speed of the machine to adjust said mechanism at a predetermined point in the retracting movement of the needle to increase the effectiveness of the strain during the continued retracting movement of the needle.

2. A sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a needle, a thread arm, and a looper, mechanism for exerting a strain on the thread during the retracting movement of the needle and to give up thread during the thread measuringmovementof the thread arm, and during the looping movement of the looper, and means rendered active upon a reduction in the speed of the machine to adjust said mechanism after the completion of said movements of the thread arm and looper to increase the effectiveness of the strain exerted on the thread during the retracting movement of the needle.

7 3. A sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a needle and a looper, mechanism for exerting a strain on the thread during the retracting movement of the needle, and to give up thread during the looping movement of the looper, and means rendered active upon a variation in the speed of the machine to adjust said mechanism substantially at the completion of the looping movement of the looper to increase the efiectiveness of the strain exerted on the thread during the retracting movement of the needle.

4. A sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a needle, mechanism for exerting a strain on the thread during the retracting movement of the needle, and means rendered active upon a reduction in the speed of the machine for adjusting said mechanism after the start of the formation of each stitch to increase the amount of said strain.

5. j A sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices includinga needle, mechanism for exerting a strain on the thread during the retracting movement of theneedle, and means rendered active upon a reduction in the speed of the machine for adjusting said mechanism after the start of the retracting movement of the needle to increase the amount of the strain during said retracting movement of the needle. r l

V 6. A sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a needle, mechanism cooperating with the needle to exert a strain on the thread during the retracting movement of the needle, and means rendered active ,upon a reduction in the speed of the machine for adjusting said mechanism after the start of the retracting movement of the needle and before the needle cooperates with said mechanism to exert a strain on the thread for increasing the amount of said strain.

7. A sewing machine. having, in combination, stitch forming devices, mechanism for exerting a strain on the thread during the formation of each stitch, and means rendered active upon a reduction in the speed of the machine for adjusting said mechanism during the formation of each stitch to increase the duration of said strains. 7

8. A sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices, mechanism for exerting a strain on the thread during the formation of each stitch, and means rendered 1 active upon a variation in the speed of the machine for adjusting said mechanism during the formation of each stitch to vary the path of travel of the thread.

9. A sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices,. a take-up tending to move in one direction to exert a strain on the'thread during the formation of each stitch, a stop for limiting the movement of the take-upin such direction, and means rendered active upon a variation in the speed of the machine for adjusting the position of the stop during the formation of each stitch to vary the amount of said strains. 7 V

10. A sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices, a take-up tending to move in one direction to exert a strain on the thread during the formation of each stitch, a stop for limiting the movement of the take-up in such direction, and means rendered active upon a reduction in the speed of the machine for adjusting the stop during the formation of each stitch to increase said strain, and upon an increase in the speed of the machine for adjusting the stop to decrease said strain.

11. A sewing machine for forming the seam that secures the upper to the between substance of the sole of a shoe having, in combination, thread handling devices, and means rendered active upon a reduction in the speed of the machine for resisting the strain of the thread on the between substance during the formation of a stitch.

12. A sewing machine for forming the seam that secures the upper to the between substance of the sole of a shoe having, in combination, thread handling devices, mechanism engaging the between substance for resisting the strain of the thread on the between substance during the formation of a stitch, and means for throwingsaid mechanism into and out of operation during the operation of the machine.

13. A sewing machine for forming the seam that secures the upper to the between substance of the sole 0 a shoehaving, in combination, a sticker point for penetrating the between substance to resist the strain of the thread on the between substance during the formation of a stitch, mechanism for actuating the sticker @point, and means for throwing said actuating mechanism into and out otoperation during the operation of the machine.

14. A sewing machine for forming the seam that secures the upper to the between substance of the sole of a shoe having, in combination, stitch forming devices, a sticker point to penetrate the between substance to resist the strain'of the thread on the between substance during the formation of a stitch, mechanism for actuating the sticker point, high and low speed driving mechanisms for the machine, and means for shifting from the high to the low speed driving mechanism and for simultaneously rendering active said actuating mechanism for the sticker point.

15. A sewing machine for forming the seam that secures the 11 per to the between substance of the sole 0 a shoe having, in combination, high and low speed driving mechanisms, means for shifting from the high to the low speed driving mechanism, thread handling devices, and means rendered active upon shifting from the high to the low speed driving mechanism for resisting the strain of the thread on the between substance during the formation of a stitch.

16. A sewing machine for forming the seam that secures the upper to the between substance of the sole of a shoe having, in combination high and low speed driving mechanisms, means for shifting from the high to the low speed driving mechanism, thread handling devices, mechanism for exerting a strain on the thread, mechanism for resisting the strain of the thread on the between substance during the formation of a stitch, and means rendered active upon shifting from the high to the low speed driving mechanism for adjusting said strain exerting mechanism to increase the strain on the thread, and for rendering active said strain resisting means.

17. A sewing machine for forming the seam that secures the upper to the between substance of the sole of a shoe having, in combination, thread handling devices, mechanism for exerting a strain on the thread, a sticker point for penetrating the between substance to resist the strain of the thread on the between substance during the formation of a stitch, means for actuating the sticker point, and means rendered active upon a reduction in the speed of the machine to adjust said strain exerting mechanism to increase the strain on the thread, and for rendering active said means for actuating the sticker point.

ALFRED B. FOVLER. 

